I’m walking on empty sand. The sky is silver-grey. There is almost nothing here: a few scattered casuarina trees, a white stone plaque; a tall white cross, the dormant cauldron of an Olympic flame.  You can come here to Long Bay for seven days and never see another soul.  This is the tiny island of San Salvador in The Bahamas, one of the most remote, pristine, uncrowded islands in the country.  But it was also the site of the most significant event in this hemisphere in the last 533 years.  It was here on Long Bay that Christopher Columbus made his first landfall in the Americas, a “s...

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