The first time you see it, when you make the northward drive-up the Caribbean coastline of Martinique, it hits you: Mont Pelee, the towering green giant of a volcano that sets the tone for much of this fascinating French Caribbean island. The road winds and curves, and it’s filled with picture-perfect black-sand beaches, all in plain sight of Pelee.  This just might be my favorite corner of Martinique, where fishing villages, rum distilleries and charming towns dot the landscape.  It’s also home to the island’s best-value hotel, a lovable boutique hotel in the endlessly fun beach town of...

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