Jason Momoa is sharing how he was scared straight from smoking again after a near-death surfing experience. The Chief of War actor, 46, recalled on the Monday, August 11, episode of the “SmartLess” podcast how he and a group of friends once surfed Peʻahi, a big wave surfing break in Maui, Hawaii, when he struggled to overcome the torrential waves. Momoa said the leash on his paddle snapped about “seven miles into” the surf. “It’s so windy on Maui, so the board just went… I couldn’t see it anymore,” he shared, noting that he was left stranded in the water and began to drown. “I took quite a few...

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