A juvenile globe-horned chameleon clings to a branch in Ambohitantely Special Reserve, a protected area in the Central Highlands of Madagascar. CENTRAL HIGHLANDS, Madagascar — The flames were close. Moving like lava across the rolling hills, just a few miles away, a wildfire lit up the night sky with orange smoke. I watched the fire from the edge of a dense forest in central Madagascar, a few hours northwest of Antananarivo, the country’s capital. It’s a special spot. This is one of the last remaining forests in the highlands of central Madagascar — a region devastated by decades of d...

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