San Nicolas gives you a completely different Aruba: an evolving Caribbean art town, the legendary Charlie’s Bar and Baby Beach just beyond downtown. The walls are covered in giant portraits and tropical colors. Charlie’s Bar is still packed with decades of memorabilia, and a few minutes away, Baby Beach opens into one of Aruba’s most spectacular turquoise lagoons. This is San Nicolas, on the southeastern side of Aruba, and after our latest visit we came away thinking the same thing we have for years: this is the Aruba you didn’t know existed. It is the island’s most convincing counter...