After 19 years, I finally went back to Ko Lipe, the Thai island I spent close to a month on in 2006. Back then, it was one of those super off-the-beaten-path destinations that few but the most intrepid travelers visited, where electricity only ran a few hours a day, basic bungalows right on the beach cost something like $2 USD, and there really was a last boat for the season. There was much to do here but that was the point. You hung out on the beach, read a book, went snorkeling, went back to the beach, drank beers at the one beach bar on the island, rotated meals between the five restauran...