This story was originally published in The Highlight, Vox’s member-exclusive magazine. To get early access to member-exclusive stories every month, join the Vox Membership program today. You don’t need me to tell you that the US is in the midst of an obsession with protein. By now, you’ve probably seen extra protein in foods and beverages it once didn’t belong: ice cream, popcorn, iced tea — even water. Google searches for “protein” have surged in recent years, and the macronutrient seems to be on the tip of every fitness influencers’ tongue.  But the impact of the protein craze goe...

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