A defense of Thanksgiving turkey

America must free itself from the oppressive chokehold of bland turkey. | Anna Moneymaker/Getty Images It’s always been puzzling that on Thanksgiving, a day when Americans are supposed to appreciate all they have in life, we are supposed to eat turkey, a big bird that deserves little to no thanks.  The nicest thing one can say about turkey is that it’s not dry, a compliment that indicates that the bird does not taste like biting into desert sand — how turkey usually is unless it’s brined, basted, buttered to a point, thankfully, beyond resemblance. There are even instances where, in a